One of the most highly regarded items in the menagerie of Southern fried foods is the hushpuppy. The history of Southern food is often shrouded in folklore, adding charm and allure that makes separating fact from fiction seem unnecessary. There are as many stories about the hushpuppy as there are recipes for this Southern staple.

Many of these stories are set during the Civil War. The common thread is that this fried cornmeal treat was used to “hush the dogs.” Some say Confederate soldiers used hushpuppies to quiet their dogs as Union troops approached. Others tell a similar tale involving runaway slaves using hushpuppies to silence dogs. Regardless of the characters, the narrative remains the same. If slaves did create the hushpuppy, it may have been inspired by a traditional South African fried cornmeal dish called “mealie pap.”

Several Southern states claim the hushpuppy as their own.

This recipe is from Flavors of the Old South, a pamphlet by Delta Air Lines, Inc., Women’s Services Department (1972). The pamphlet aimed to “capture the grace and charm of the Old South with a few recipes.”

Hush puppies

• 1/2 cup sifted flour
• 1 cup cornmeal
• 1 onion, minced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 egg
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 cup milk, approximately

Combine all ingredients, adding just enough milk to moisten to a rather stiff dough. Drop by spoonfuls into deep hot shortening (350 degrees) and fry until brown, about 3 to 4 minutes. Yield: 24 hushpuppies.